Jumat, 01 April 2016

diy aquaponics syphon


I wonder how dangerous aquaponic, bioponic, and hydroponic can become...
Harmful algal bloom (HAB) are capable of producing a number of toxins that may pose a risk to human and animal health. HABs occur when excess nitrogen and phosphorus are present in lakes and streams. Such nutrients can come from runoff of over-fertilized fields and lawns, from malfunctioning septic systems and from livestock pens

http://www.toledonewsnow.com/story/26178506/breaking-urgent-notice

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diy aquaponics system plans


I got old peoples hands yesterday.

Ive never had old peoples hands before.


Wear Levis, pick guitars and go riding on trucks.


Ill be right back in just a sec...








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DIY Aquaponics | Toxic

DIY Aquaponics


There are several areas where toxicity should be considered.  Here are some questions to ask about the materials we use in our systems.
   Is our personal health compromised while working with a material?
   Will toxins pollute our food?
   Is it toxic to our fish?
   Is it detrimental to the plants?

Working with epoxy, or cutting, and heating OSB, Polystyrene, ABS, PVC all pose some degree of toxins so some precautions should be used during fabrication.  Most of the time our nose will let us know right away.  For example melting ABS is so toxic that it becomes nearly impossible without the proper precautions. Other materials like OSB or pressure treated wood may not trigger an acute response, but long term exposure to sawdust can cause injury.

Epoxy and silicon caulking and PVC solvent fumes are detrimental to our health, so precautions should also be used while working with them. After these materials cure the danger to us, our fish and plants diminishes to a level most would consider safe.   Silicone caulk comes in Type 1 and Type 2.   For our purposes Type 1 should be used because it is considered fish safe after it cures and is allowed to out gas.

Pond liners such as EPDM rubber, polyethylene, fiberglass, and polypropylene are safe for both fish and humans. Some people have used vinyl billboard material, but even when purchased new, this material can leach toxins.   Here is a link to more information about pond liners
"Pliable Vinyl was a bad choice for the water treatment industry, and water delivery systems (theres a reason it was banned for use in those applications... leaching of tetrachloroethylene, a really fun chemical) and it hardly seems like such a great choice for a re-circulating food production system.
Sure, mechanically it will work for a while (as long as you get a good one...btw, fun fact: calcium levels in your water can and does apparently affect vinyls pliability), but why someone would want to use even a virgin vinyl liner in AP, let alone one rubbed down with things like ethyl ketone, silk screened, and set out to bake in the sun for a while, is beyond me.
IMO (as well as the International Agency for Research on Cancer) pliable vinyl in all its forms, seems like a really poor choice for such an application. There is a reason vinyl is called "the poor mans plastic". Both mechanically, as well as chemically it is an inferior product. There are not many plasticizers commonly used that will form a co-valent bond with vinyl, which is why they will leach over time. And is why vinyl is slowly being either outright banned, or voluntarily dropped from use (by industry) in many products/applications. "- Vlad Jovanovic
LINK to Forum
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer): EPDM rubber performs well in colder climates. This highly flexible liner also resists air pollution and has a lifespan of 20 years. EPDM is also non-toxic to plants and fish and is stable when exposed to UV rays.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride): These liners are highly flexible, easy to work with and are UV stable if they are not exposed to direct sunlight. PVC liners last for about 10 years or more but are less resistant to freezing temperatures. But the safety off flexible PVC is suspect.  As Vlad has explained to me; (let me directly quote) plasticizers can and do leech out over time and make their way into our blood streams. Some of them are particularly nasty type of toxins. (Of coarse, those are the cheapest and most often used...again, particularly in the US). Here is a generic introductory wiki link on the topic that touches on some of the many health and safety aspects of pthalate plasticizers... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalate

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene): HDPE liners are made from a tough thermoplastic substance that is safe for fish and plants. These liners are inexpensive and can last for up to 15 years. HDPE liners are the least flexible and do not work as well in colder climates. HDPE liners are generally less expensive than PVC liners.

Butyl Rubber: Butyl rubber liners are UV-resistant and last approximately 20 years. Some butyl liners can be toxic so do your research if you plan to have fish in your pond. Although somewhat flexible, these liners are thick and tough to fold at corners and curves.

Fiberglass: Fiberglass liners cost much more than flexible liners and are not as natural looking. Before setting a fiberglass pond in the ground, it is critical to use a thick layer of brick sand to pack under and around the pond. This information came from Home Depot

EPDM comes in different forms,  Some is intended for construction industry and then there is EPDM for ponds.  The difference as far as I can tell is that pond liner has been allowed to out gas by laying it out in the sun, but I may be wrong.  Use THIS LINK for more information on the wide variety of liners

Copper and galvanized pipe may not be toxic to us, but it should be avoided when fish water recirculates in your system.   Even your choice of heater element should be stainless steel in order to avoid poisoning your fish. I questioned this at first because our water supply often travels through metal pipe.  The difference is that we are recirculating our water and the pH of this water is generally lower than the supply.

Plants depend on minerals for their growth and iron deficiency is a common problem in aquaponics. The use of Portland cement in a fish pond or limestone in your grow bed will cause your water to maintain a high pH and thus deprive the plants of bio available iron.  Not all iron products are the same. Look for an Fe-EDDHA or Fe-DTPA product (chelated iron that is bioavalable to plants).   For more about this topic refer to this discussion

v

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diy aquaponics greenhouse plans


     At Trinity Aquaponics we maintain several systems so that our staff never stops learning and so we can conduct our own research on aquaponics in zone 9, the gardening zone were headquartered in.  Research on aquaponics has been conducts since the 70s, but that research isnt widespread.  The research my company conducted is key to offering our customers here in Houston the advice and information that they need to successfully grow with aquaponics.
     Were in the heat of midsummer right now, and it gets brutal outside.  There are a lot of crops that simply wont grow right now.  But its crucial for an aquaponic system to have plant growth in the system at all times.  Without plants the filtration is lost and fish mortality is significantly increased.  So, what can you grow the temperature rises?
     Most leafy green crops such as lettuce and cabbage are cool season crops.  If you try and grow them during the summer they are stunted, bolt (stretch and become bitter), or just die.  And fruiting crops such as tomatoes will stop setting fruit and produce much less when things heat up.  Crops that do extremely well are herbs.  Right now our systems are overflowing with mint and lemon balm.  I have several basil plants in the systems that are doing great, as well.  Peppers have also fared well this summer.  Despite the heat, these plants will continue producing for you.
    As part of the research that I run, weve just in the past week introduced pole beans, bush beans, cucumber, and tomatillos to one of the systems in order to record how well they grow and produce when introduced in midsummer.  So far growth has been great, and I will keep updating the blog with the progress of those crops as they continue to grow.  I can state for a fact that tomatillos will flourish despite brutal heat and little water in traditional soil gardens.  I have high hopes for them in aquaponics.
     Even though your options are severely limited in the heat of a Texas summer there are fruiting crops that will produce for you.  And it is a great time for herbs.  If you have a food dehydrator you can stock up on dried herbs during the summer to make more space for fruiting crops come cooler weather.  Peppers can be harvested and canned or pickled, which gives you a supply later in the year while once again making room for other crops.  Now, if you have a climate controlled greenhouse your crop selection wont be limited by temperatures.  But a greenhouse is typically a bit of an investment, so Id suggest sticking with crops that do well in the heat for most residential aquaponic gardeners.

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diy aquaponics pdf | Rocket Mass Stove

diy aquaponics pdf


Ive mentioned this before, but this is such a neat way to heat that I wanted to make an entry just for Rocket Mass Stoves and include the best videos and links I have found.  

Paul Wheaton from Permies.com demonstrates in this first 2 minute video just how efficient the Rocket Mass Stove is.  You see this video frame here where this lady has her face over the flue pipe.  The heat and fumes from the flue are warm not hot and very clean.  I hope you will explore the videos at  Permies.com.  It is one of my favorite sites!

 



Efficiency is the key to heating a green house.

This simple low tech stove with exceptionally high efficiency is something anybody could build.
Why do we continue the spend thousands on air tight stoves that pollute and burn more wood?


http://tinygreenlove.blogspot.com/2012/02/amazing-rocket-mass-heater.html


Below is another favorite video educator.  Rob Torcellini shows the details of how he built a Rocket Mass Stove to heat his greenhouse.  The same stove could heat your house.

Add a self feed bin for pellets!  This is how Rob did it.

Rob has taken the Rocket Mass Stove to a very sophisticated level. His excellent engineering skills and preparations while building his green house have payed off well.

Hear are some more ideas




Ive included this video because it demonstrates the effectiveness of a rocket mass stove



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diy aquaponics grow media


Now its November and a month away from summer. Already it has been very hot and dry - not much rain at all since June. Here are some pics of the spring planting - and one showing the new, improved insulation on the fish tanks. Once the water warmed up, the fish started growing again and are a mix - somewhere between 10 and 15 cm. At the moment theyre being fed on commercial pellets, worms and black soldier fly larvae. The system is now 7 months old and working very well.





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diy deep water culture aquaponics




If I only knew then what I know now...


I like these troughs I found at Tractor Supply.  They are a bit shallow, but I think they will do very well.
Heres an update to my expansion using bunk feeders.
Im seriously considering this long one (approximately 10"Dx24"Wx108"L) for a grow bed.  $154.00

These would make a nice fish tank.  The big one is about 300 gallons. 5Dx3H  $250.00



After building my own tanks from both 45mil EPDM and the pond liner they sell at Home Depot I would lean toward these heavy duty Rubbermaid Structural Foam Stock Tanks, because they are less likely to leak, easy to clean, easy to insert bulkheads into

I have also built an IBC system.  But polyethylene is not UV proof.  This round tank appeals to me because it would be less difficult to manage than a 4 deep IBC fish tank.   

My relentless quest for a reasonably priced media has finally turned up Pumice.

UPDATE 12/3/2012
Pumice has turned out to be a great media for net pots, but it packs, and I believe it would tend to clog if used in an aquaponic media bed where the purpose of a media bed is to filter the solids.  It might be acceptable in a hydroponic or bioponic system where solids are not an issue.

The pumice I bought looks exactly as in the picture.
The size ranges from about  3-8 mm.
The pieces are very hard and do not easily crush.

I crushed a piece with a pair of pliers.  Then I rubbed it between my hands.  Some particles first appeared to be long and pointed, but the rubbing caused them all to break down into irregular grit.  There were no sharp shards left in my hands afterward, and nothing that looked sharp remained.  It tends to form roundish particles.

Its extremely easy on the hands.  Its soft on the skin and nails; not at all like feather rocks or lava rock.  There are no shape shards, and if it brakes I doubt that it would create sharp shards. When it was dry it felt like placing my hands in puffed rice.
The best description I can think of is like heavy Perlite

After soaking for approximately 20 hours about 2/3 sank and the other 1/3 remained floating.  It was easy to separate the sinkers from the floaters.
After two days 95% had sunk and eventually all of it sank.
I would suggest rinsing well as the water was a bit cloudy.

When I rinsed it, the first water changed from pH from 8 to 6.6, but after several rinses the pH did not change.  
The cost was $28 per 1/2 yard.

I would assume that it is available at many garden nursery suppliers so availability is less of a problem than expanded shale, and yet the price is well below clay medias.

Overall I think it would be a very good media for ebb and flow if some protection were put in place to screen the very small particles.
The material could be separated according to size with a screen, but it packs well enough that it does not fall through the cracks of a net pot like the clay balls, and yet continues to drain well allowing for plenty of air.


Im very impressed by it, and look forward to replacing all of my other medias including Hydroton.  Considering the price it is well worth taking a look at.

  
The pumice worked in a net pot.  Fewer grains fell through the pot than if I had used Hydroton.
 



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Kamis, 31 Maret 2016

diy aquaponics controller


(Update link at bottom)

My venture into aquaponics has been an experiment, and while I have attempted to keep the costs reasonable I have made some poor choices and at times had to compromise practical energy use in order to experiment. But this is what experimentation requires in order to learn.

Below is fairly an accurate assessment of my costs.  I used a Kill-A-Watt meter for accurate measurement of each appliance.  I have chosen to use $0.30 per KWH because Im so far over baseline electric use.  Its really embarrassing.  

This spreadsheet is available in Open Office format.


A major cost of operating my indoor system has been movement of air.   Air is important, so finding ways to move it less expensively will be my first priority.  Currently Im using a 20" box fan, but I will replace it with a smaller fan that uses only 30 Watts.

Air stones are also required whether inside or outside.  Im using a Hydrofarm 52 Watt 70-LPM Active Aqua Commercial Air Pump.  Several smaller pumps may be sufficient, but this one pump supplies all my needs.

Moving water is also a large expense.   External pumps are less expensive on a per gallon basis, and with the newly expanded outdoor system I will be upgrading to a larger external pump as indicated in the spread sheet.

So far my systems have all relied upon a constant flow of water.  I am not fond of Ebb & Flow systems and have no plan to switch over,  but an Ebb & Flow system where the pumps are run intermittently to save energy may be the only way to cut this expense for some.   My plan is to expand my systems to the point that production out paces the cost of pumping water.

I have also learned that buried tanks are only somewhat helpful in stablizing the temperatures.
For example,our weather has consistently ranged from 66F and night to 100F during the day for about a week, and has been near that for even longer.
My 10 x 3 1600 gallon above ground pool is 75F
My  1300 gallon fish pond with a 3x7 above ground bio-filter is 72F
My IBC system uses 3 - 275 gallon IBCs.  The sump tank is buried and the fish tank is not.  The last IBC is cut in half, and serves as two above ground grow beds.  The temperature is 75F
My climate controlled indoor system is kept between 70F and 85F.  The water is 75F.

I have measured my pond during the winter at 58F, but this year I will keep better records of all these systems.  Last winter I supplemented the heat in the indoor system about 4 hours per day using a 1250W inline electric heater.

These costs can only be justified if the systems were to produce thousands of dollars worth of food.
My assessment is that large scale commercial systems may be able to  break even or better, but small backyard aquaponic enthusiasts with 100 sq ft of grow bed are going to face lower returns while still incurring many of the same costs.

Green house gardening with supplemental light during the winters short day light is expensive, and demands that the green house be built with plenty of insulation.  My indoor system is proof that maintaining temperature in an insulated green house is feasible.  But the added cost of moving air and supplementing the light adds a significant expense which may only be justified in a commercial system where year round product is expected by the clients.  To be fair I recently read of a commercial system where 30,000 lettuce were grown in a 500 sq ft indoor room under artificial lights.  No financial records were available.

In conclusion barring the many other disastrous things that can go wrong in artificial systems, it seems 
outdoor farming is the least expensive, and may be the only economical option for backyard aquaponists.  Living in a temperate climate, and raising high demand crops, and fish appropriate to the local climate on a scale that offsets the base expenses could also help make an aquaponic venture economic feasibility.  But amortizing the cost of building, and maintaining the system has not even been address in this study.  Also solar heating and photovoltaic system integration may help improve the economy, but so far I have not incorporated this into my systems.

The bottom line is that its either a fun hobby with expenses that will in all likelihood never find a return beyond the pure enjoyment of producing food and overcoming the many problems involved, or a high risk business venture.  

Indoor System
Outdoor IBC System


Im happy to say my energy efforts have begun to work!

UPDATE:  This is an idea I have for an outdoor system that will consume only 1.2KWH per day!




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diy aquaponics vortex filter


UPDATE:
2013/01/18
Several months ago I built this heater with a stainless steel element. Its actually refered to as an Incoloy type water heater element  (120-1500-ELD.

You can purchase them online here at http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

This heater now floats in the sump tank.  Its very important to add something buoyant at the end opposite the cord so that air bubbles leaving the element do not get caught in the small area where the element screws into the plastic housing.  Even this very small amount of exposure will burn out the element.

 


Previous Designs


 2012/03/19
Today I made the mistake of unplugging my pump while the heater was on.  PVC smoke quickly filled the room and the element died.
.
Here is my new design.  Its made of 1" galvanized pipe, but the element will still self destruct withing seconds if its run dry so I have moved it to a position below the level of the sump tank.  The outlet is above the fish tank so it will not draw a siphon but the water level will drop to the level in the sump tank.
If I should loose the pump the water will boil inside the pipe, but this galvanized pipe will not burn.
The thermostat can not operate at boiling temperature, and will still burn and self destruct within seconds if the water is not flowing.  At least this will prevent heating galvanized pipe. - Just looking for a bright spot to an unpleasant situation...

I will not be using the Honeywell Thermostat because the water changes so slowly that I can regulate it as I wish by flipping the switch on and off.  The temperature changes by about 4F per day.
 
If I ever choose to hook up the thermostat I think I may be able the use the high cut off temp as a safety.
But there has simply been too much to do.

My plan is to use an 1-1/2" PVC elbow to cover the electrical connections.

Original Post:
This is my heater. It uses two 1500W elements in series to drop the current down below 8A which is the max amperage my Honeywell 675 thermostat will handle.  In this picture I am using only one element without the thermostat in order to deliver more heat.
Its an inline flow through heater. It works very well and should last for many years. As long as water flows through the heater it will not over heat.  I would like to add a relay that will only allow the heater to be on when the pump is on and water is flowing.
The elements are rated at 1500W, but measurements indicate only 1300 W are actually being used when only one element is used, and when placed in series 750 W is drawn.  I attribute the difference to line loss even though the building is wired with 12 gauge.
The elements screw into 1" female adapters.  The housing is made of 2" PVC.  When I put my hand on the heater, I can just barely feel the heat, but over time it will maintain my 1000 gallon system which is well insulated.

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diy aquaponics shrimp


I thought Id make a little adjustment to my venturi as suggested by Mike Creuzer in a comment on this post on my Venturi air thing.

He thought I should have some extra bubbles breaking the surface, and it turns out its a bit of a hot topic in great debate all over the place, but I noticed a very slight oil slick on the surface of the water. I guess lots of things case very slight oil slicks. Eucalyptus leaves for one. Uneaten fish food probably would. I suspect an oil slick - and Im talking an almost invisible one - would have some effect on gaseous exchange between the atmosphere, and my fish tanks water.

I have no idea if thats true, but I figure it couldnt hurt to stir the surface a little.

So I trimmed the pipe carrying water and bubbles down to the bottom by an inch or so and now lots more bubbles exit.










A 1/4 second exposure shows how much extra water movement on the surface is actually going on.










After only a few seconds there was no more sign of the oil slick.







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diy 55 gallon aquaponics | Week Six

diy 55 gallon aquaponics


Little beans and snow peas had made an appearance by week six and everything was finally looking quite healthy. We have planted tomatoes, cucumbers, dwarf and climbing bean, snow peas, lettuce, Chinese vegetable, herbs, silverbeet, dwarf broccoli and strawberries. A trellis is installed along the back for the cukes and beans to climb on. There are trellises at the sides for the snow peas.



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diy aquaponics video



Birds are an important diversity factor of the Permaculture garden. The provide pest control, pollination, company and and of course, beautiful music!


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diy aquaponics with fish



http://www.ecofilms.com.au/ Bruce Morgan is into making his chickens do the work around the house using a series of wire tunnels.


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diy aquaponics system youtube



Many people get the idea to heat water after attempting to drink from a hose that has been laying in the sun.  The water is hot so wouldnt it be easy to get a 100 of black irrigation tubing a coil it up. Yes this will heat water but there are problems involved with this method.

First is poor efficiency. As the water travels the length of the tube it begins to quickly gain heat, but the hotter it gets the slower it gains additional heat.  It would be better to use several short lengths to warm the water only as much as you need.  Adjusting the optimum length is more than I wish to get into, but with some experimentation you will find a range that suits your needs.

Another problem with one long coil is resistance to flow.  The longer you make the tube the slower the water will flow.  A manifold  can solve both these problems. Fabricating a manifold may appeal to some DIY folks, but hot tubs often use manifolds and so they are readily available for about $10.00
Water Manifold 2"S x 2"S (6) 3/4" Ports



Its been pointed out to me that a better choice would be CPVC due to the high temperatures these systems can reach especially when not in use and the water is not moving.

Flow Gaurd MultiPort CPVC Manifold

By using several short lengths you will increase the effective diameter and reduce the resistance as well as the demands on your pump.

Dont forget to use a high temperature water pump.  They are easy to find, but this is an important consideration that could be over looked.

Also the roof may look like an ideal place for a solar collector but you will have to have a pump tha can provide enough head pressure which will influence the cost of the pump and your choice of locations for the collector.

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diy aquaponics stand | Aquaponics Duckweed

diy aquaponics stand


Since I moved my duckweed into its new home its growing like some kind of thing that grows a lot.

It looked like this nineteen days ago.

Then eighteen days ago I lost a lot of it because I overflowed my tank and all the duckweed went for a walk over the edge.









It looks like this today.

Its not lost on me that this is a poor comparison.

I realise they look pretty much the same, but this latest one is many layers thick in most parts. The original pic is all a single layer thick. I had no idea it could grow this way in multiple layers.





I suspect this is a dangerous thing to grow on top of a fishtank as it might choke the water. I doubt  the water will see enough oxygen. If not for the fact that I only have one fish, I think there could be trouble.

I think I might scoop all this out and do a time lapse of it growing back, but then I think I might move it into some other containers or something.


120 Things in 20 years wants some trout fingerlings.

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diy aquaponics pdf download




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diy solar heater aquaponics



"For quick and cheap fencing, just install posts and slip pallets over them. To make them more secure, run a couple [of] screws through the pallets and into the posts."

Source: homesteadingsurvival.com


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diy aquaponics plumbing



An absolutely fascinating tour of the Seven Seeds Farms keyline irrigation system. A very well thought out video showing how their design maximises the beneficial use of water resources of a piece of land. Keyline irrigation refers to a specific topographic feature linked to water flow; a design system that integrates keen observation of the lands shape and how the water runs with it.

Permaculture seed wizard Don Tipping takes us on a 10 minute animated tour of the epic Seven Seeds Farm in the Siskiyou Mountains of Southern Oregon, USA. The farm was designed using Permaculture Principles and Keyline patterning. We follow the water system from top to bottom, and then the amazing downstream effects are revealed. This video was produced by Andrew Millison as part of the course content for his online Permaculture Design Course and Advanced Design Practicum, taught through the Horticulture department at Oregon State University.

Please visit pne.oregonstate.edu to register for courses, or www.beaverstatepermaculture.com for more information.


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diy aquaponics tilapia




Lunch box, storage container, sewing kit, ETC.!!! That little pop-stud is available from loads of places.

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Rabu, 30 Maret 2016

diy deep water culture aquaponics



Organic pest control - Natural bug and insect repellents

When it comes to insects in your garden, its a bug eat bug world, so dont panic. Most bugs are good for garden. But how to control the those who dont do your garden any favours without chemicals? Heres great advice from Scott Meyer, editor of Organic Gardening magazine.

This is an interesting video, but its not exactly Permaculture. Masanobu Fukuoka was all about having nature do the work for you. Geoff Lawton from the Permaculture Institute of Australia says that if you have a slug problem, you really have a duck deficiency. Let nature do your work. Interesting video though....

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diy strawberry tower aquaponics


Ive been worried about all my dodgy electronics on my solar boat, so I figured I should have a master kill switch that couldnt fail, and came up with a fuse holder and a 6mm bolt, tied to some artfully arranged paracord in the form of a survival bracelet that my brother made for me.

Cut the threaded bit off the bolt, tie a nice grippy paracord handle to it, then put the bolt in the fuse holder that connects all the electrics to the positive terminal.

One pull and everything stops.

It should work.

If it does, I should also be able to clip onto it with with a 2m bungee cord when I want to move around the boat if Im under way. That way if I fall off, the motor will stop. I think its called a dead mans switch. I was originally planning to create one digitally, and I still might if it turns out to be a pain, but if I need it, Ill build it on the boat. If I did it digitally, Id make a simple sonic tape measure with a PICAXE chip that would notice if I left my chair. Then it would beep in 60 seconds, then kill all power to the motor if I didnt wave my hand in front of it within 15 seconds.

I think I prefer paracord and my bolt fuse.



120 Things in 20 years realises a solar deadmans switch sounds like safety overkill, but Ill have junk everywhere, no side rails, and 2000km is a long way to chase a boat moving slightly faster than I can swim on the Murray River.



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diy countertop aquaponics


UPDATE 8/9/2012
I know it must seem like Im always correcting myself with these updates, but Im documenting the learning experience and attempting to pass on knowledge as I learn it.  Many times it appears that I have understood the problem at the time, but as more information appears this changes on occation.  

A few days ago I found small red worms, and at first thought they were Camallanus, but it turned out to be Midge.  Midge is a great food for fish, and it was only after transferring my fish to the raft so that I could better care for them that I figured that out.   The fish have not shown the excitement they used to show when fed, and I wonder if this is because they were feeding on Midge worms, and have become spoiled.  Simple fish food must seem tasteless to them now, and I suspect this is the reason for their lack of appetite.

ORIGINAL POST:
For about six weeks my fish have not been eating as aggressively as they used to. 
They have been showing signs of breeding, and
I attributed this to the loss of appetite.

But it was about the same time I added Dr Iron iron chelate. 
The iron made the water quite brown, and I also observed some algae on the walls of the tank, and in the water which I attributed to warmer weather. 
So the cloudy water did not concern me, and
my assumption remains that iron chelate is not harmful to the fish, but its definitely not to be dismissed.   
The Iron Chelate level has dropped from 0.5 ppm to 0.1 ppm over the past three weeks.  Today I bumped that up again with 60ml of
Dr Iron .
 
Before the fish began to loose their appetite I began to allow the salt levels to become depleted in an effort to see what affect if any a 0.15% salt level has on plants.
I let the salt level drop to zero over the course of a couple months.   That experiment was trashed when a leak developed in my grow bed, and I had to remove all the media and plants. 
The bacteria took a small hit but I was able to preserve, and restore the bacteria within a few days by using a small wet/dry bio filter.
Two days ago I began to bring the salt levels back up since I have very few plants left in the grow bed to experiment with.  Im now using this system for starting seeds and growing outdoors in my other system.

After bringing the salt up to only 0.9% the water cleared the fish began to eat better.
Ill continue to watch the fish to see if their appetite continues to improve, but since I have several variables going on Im still trying to figure out what it is that caused the loss of appetite.   It might be simply salt levels, but I feel that there is more to it than that.  Maybe there was enough algae in the tank to keep them satisfied. Im also  pretty sure they are also eating their young even though I have tried to provide a safe areas for the fry to escape into.


I added FE2 today, so I should be able to tell if this is the cause or not.  Ill update this post as I learn more.

UPDATE July 22, 2012 
After adding the FE2 on July 16 the water became dark again.   The fish seemed to feed a little less aggressively, but they did not ignore the food like before.  A week later they are eating better.   Dr Iron contains Phosphate 5%:  Potash (K2O) 8%;  Iron (Fe)  8%  so there are other ingredients beyond FE2 and it may be that this may be causing the fish to temporarily eat less.

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